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Maverick's Surf 

VIDEO: World’s Most Talented Surfers Ride ‘Out Of Control Huge’ 3-Story Monster Waves At Mavericks

Source: KPIX Channel 5CBS
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ource: www.hmbreview.com
Photographer rides waves too. Grant swims amid mighty waves
  • By August Howel   --  Dec 16, 2020​
There are many surf photographers, but few take their photos while treading water at big-wave spots like Mavericks. Coastside photographer David Grant uses special equipment for an unusually close view of the waves and surfers. Photo courtesy David Grant.On Dec. 3, the first large winter swell of the season brought 20-foot waves to Mavericks, where a crowd of surfers eagerly awaited their turn on massive waves. Few opted for the left-hand side of the wave, which is difficult because of the wave’s steep angle and speed. But that is where you would have found David Grant, who, armed with just fins, a wetsuit and a digital camera encased in a water-tight housing, swam for more than three hours in glassy 20-foot surf.
Grant, a 23-year-old Moss Beach resident, has been surfing around the Coastside for 10 years. He says he loved photography before he started surfing, but he began taking both more seriously a decade ago. After hurting his back in high school and being unable to surf, Grant craved water time. He could still swim, so he stuck his camera in a water housing, put on fins and swam out to document sessions from the water.
These days, he is actively looking for clean days at Half Moon Bay and Ocean Beach, swimming with his Canon encased in a hefty water housing. He posts many of his images on his Instagram, @davidgrantphotography.
Mavericks, one of the most famous and powerful waves in the world, has long held an allure for Grant. From a photography standpoint, he saw uncharted territory. Photographers and surfers have documented it for decades from all angles, using Jet Skis, drones, even helicopters. But few, if any, have swum with a camera through the wave itself.
The current and sheer magnitude of the wave makes the endeavor unappealing for all but a very few. But the prospect of being in the wave’s energy and getting a shot of the tube from so close lingered in Grant’s mind for years.
Grant arrived that day on a Jet Ski with Tim West Jr., an El Granada resident who’s got 20 years of experience at Mavericks. West, who owns and teaches surf lessons through the Mavericks Experience, knew of Grant’s passion for photography and wanted to help.
“I just shadowed him on my ski and made sure he was safe, but there was really no worries,” West said. “He’s on point with his ability and he got some amazing photos.”
Inside the barrel at Mavericks. Photo courtesy David GrantWest says the first, and likely only, person ever before to shoot from the water was Mike Peralta, who documented Mark Foo’s final wave before his death at Mavericks on Dec. 23, 1994. Grant has been to Mavericks numerous times before and is a fit swimmer. He’s also a commercial fisherman and understands the nuances of the ocean. Still, he admits there were some nerves getting off the ski.
He wanted to base his position on the lineup of surfers and personal watercraft, but didn’t want to put all his faith in their positioning in case they misjudged a set of larger waves.
“As soon as I jumped in the water, I felt more at ease,” Grant recalled. “But the reality that I was at Mavericks didn’t quite kick in until the first set came.”
Timing and positioning are crucial at Mavericks. For Grant, the same principles applied. He had to actively swim against the persistent current to avoid the impact zone. For a little while, Grant had company. Sachi Cunningham, a filmmaker known for swimming out in massive surf at Ocean Beach, was also shooting that day.
“She just kills it out there,” Grant said. “There aren’t many photographers who can go out there consistently and get good photos.”
Grant’s philosophy on photography revolves around a connection to his subjects. He believes the relationships he forms with people, whether they’re surfing, diving, skateboarding or hunting, translates to a quality experience and better final product. After the session is over, the photos kindle memories he can share. Linking up with local surfers Luca Padua and Hunter Murison was a special occasion.
“When I saw Luca and Hunter going, it reminded me of all those days at the beach shooting,” Grant said. “I wanted to put myself in that position for them,” he said.


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Source: San Francisco Cronicle
In Mavericks’ dream surf season, 51-year-old Peter Mel making big-wave history
By Bruce Jenkins 
January 16, 2021

In the fantasy world of big-wave surfers, the waves never stop. Giant swells arrive one after another, in perfect weather. Even the hardiest athletes take a day or two off to preserve their stamina, for there’s so much more to come.

That dreamy scenario is the reality of January at Mavericks. Through Saturday, 21 of the 23 days produced legitimate big-wave size, ranging from 20 to 60 feet and beyond. The performance level makes an exponential rise. And when the proper perspective is drawn, a single name stands above the rest.

The master. Peter Mel. As a very old friendship, man and wave, blossoms as never before.

You’ve heard the expression “old guys rule,” and it’s no joke here. The Santa Cruz-based surfer is 51, with a devotion to Mavericks dating to 1991, and he’s always been one of the best out there. But something happened over a three-day stretch this month, something that left Mel wondering, “Where do I go from here?”

As longtime Northern California standout Steve Dwyer put it, “Pete put himself into two Mavericks clubs — Biggest Barrel and Biggest Wave — that have only one member. Him.”

On Jan. 8, the water a pristine blue-green and brushed to perfection by offshore winds, Mel paddled into a 50-foot drop that redefined the art of Mavericks “tube” riding. On that very unforgiving stretch of reef, a spot beyond the normal takeoff area that surfers attempted to conquer for years, he pulled into a gigantic cavern on his 9-foot-10-inch Merrick and came out the other side, arms raised, looking almost stunned by the accomplishment. There were shouts of amazement from watercraft in the channel, and when Mavericks pioneer Jeff Clark got a look at the video, he proclaimed it “the most technical job we’ve ever seen from a paddle-in surfer.”

GO TO SAN FRANCISCO CRONICLE FOR THE FULL ARTICLE AND ADDITIONAL PHOTOS AND VIDEO

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